Quick answer: For most woodworking, use aluminum oxide – it's affordable, lasts well, and gives a clean scratch pattern on hardwood, softwood, paint and lacquer. Gold open-coat aluminum oxide is the best all-round choice because it resists loading. Use zirconia or ceramic for fast stock removal on rough or hard wood, and silicon carbide for sanding between finish coats. Start at 80–120 grit for shaping, finish at 180–220 before stain or paint, and never skip more than one grit.
Sandpaper grains for wood
| Grain | Best for | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Aluminum oxide | All-round woodworking, hardwood, painted and lacquered surfaces | Affordable, long life, works by hand or power tool |
| Gold aluminum oxide (open coat) | Finish sanding, fillers, paint, natural finishes | Anti-load coating; excellent scratch pattern |
| Zirconia | Fast stock removal, rough lumber, sharp edges | Outlasts aluminum oxide; not for fine detail |
| Ceramic | Heavy removal, stripping stain and paint, high-pressure jobs | Cuts cool, longest life, highest cost |
| Silicon carbide | Between coats of finish; also glass, plastic, metal | Very sharp – use light pressure |
| Non-woven | Prep before stain or paint, light blending, wet use | Go gently on softwood |
Aluminum oxide
The most common sandpaper for wood and the right default. It works on every type of material – especially hardwoods and surfaces that were previously painted or lacquered – is affordable, and lasts a long time by hand or on a power tool. Gold aluminum oxide hook & loop discs are the best version for finish work: a special coating stops loading and clogging so one disc lasts far longer, and the scratch pattern is clean enough to leave a natural finish if you're not staining or painting. Gold comes in discs, belts and 9" x 11" sheets, so pick the form that fits the size of the job.
Zirconia
Zirconia lasts longer than aluminum oxide and removes more material per pass. It's the grain for rough or harsh wood with sharp edges and for anything where speed matters more than a fine finish – it isn't the choice for detailed or intricate work. Available in discs, pads and belts, at a somewhat higher price.
Silicon carbide
Harder and sharper than aluminum oxide, so use light pressure. It works on glass, plastic and metal as well as soft and hard wood, and it's the standard grain for sanding between coats of finish or paint.
Ceramic
Ceramic is for the big jobs: stripping stain, paint or stubborn spots, and any high-pressure sanding where you're removing a lot of wood fast. It resists overheating and burning, and although it costs more, it outlasts aluminum oxide by a wide margin.
Non-woven abrasives
A nylon web loaded with aluminum oxide or silicon carbide, sold as belts, discs, pads and wheels. Ideal for prepping a surface before stain or paint, and usable wet. They work on hardwood and softwood, but keep the pressure very light on softwood.
Sandpaper grit chart for wood
| Grit | Grade | Use on wood |
|---|---|---|
| 24–36 | Extra coarse | Removing stock and old coatings |
| 40–60 | Coarse | Removing paint, rounding sharp edges |
| 80 | Medium | Shaping, leveling |
| 100–150 | Medium–fine | Prep work, removing light debris and old finish |
| 180–220 | Fine | Final sanding before stain or paint; between coats |
| 240–360 | Very / extra fine | Between finish coats |
| 400–800 | Super / ultra fine | Polishing wood and rubbing out finishes |
Work up through the grits one step at a time – 80, then 120, then 180, then 220. Jumping from 80 to 220 leaves scratches the fine paper can't remove. Our guide to US vs. European grit grading explains the "P" numbers.
Belts, discs or sheets?
Hand sanding is fine for small pieces but slow and tiring on anything larger. Sanding belts are the fastest way through a large surface. Hook & loop discs on a random orbit sander change in seconds and give the cleanest finish – just match the grit to the step so you don't damage the piece. Sheets are for detail and hand work. Non-woven pads and wheels are for polishing and light prep where you don't want to remove material. See open coat vs. closed coat for why open-coat paper is the better choice on resinous softwoods.
